Koper Cruise Port
Port of Koper: An Overview
Koper is a city of about 25,000, located in the Slovenian province of Istria, at the northern end of Slovenia's brief 29-mile stretch of coastline. Originally an island just off the coast, Koper is Slovenia's oldest town, dating back to the Middle Bronze Age. In Greek times, it was known as Aegida; the Romans called it Capris, and it was later named Insula Capraria (Goat Island) in the sixth century. The Byzantine era followed, along with a new name -- Justinopolis. Then came the Venetians, who ruled it the longest (1279 to 1797), calling it Capodistria, which eventually morphed into the Slovenian "Koper." The town changed hands briefly several more times and was part of Yugoslavia before Slovenia became an independent country.
With its Venetian history and proximity to Italy, you'll notice that Koper has a bit of an Italian feel to it -- and, in fact, Italian is the second language here. What was once the fortified island is now Old Town, and part of the surrounding water has been filled in to connect it to the mainland. A ring road surrounds Old Town, marking a sharp distinction between its historic architecture and the less-attractive modern buildings outside of Old Town.
Guidebooks don't sing Koper's praises, but the town has its charms, with enough to keep you occupied during a relaxed day on shore. One of the nicest aspects is Koper's lack of tacky shops and mobs of tourists. You can stroll from the port to Old Town's ancient main square, take in the sights, do a bit of shopping, relax with a coffee under a 15th-century loggia, check out the farmers market, sample Istrian wines or soak up the seaside Adriatic sun at an outdoor cafe.
As Slovenia's only cruise port, Koper is growing in popularity. In 2016, 70 ships called here, as opposed to just 49 in 2015. Visit soon, while the town still retains its mellow, untouristy atmosphere.and
To reach Old Town from the port, you'll need to climb about 50 steps or take an elevator (which wasn't working when we visited) that's directly across from the port. To reach the main square, Titov Trg (about a five-minute walk), take a left once you've arrived up top and then take your first right onto Verdijeva Ulica. It will lead you past Venetian-era buildings into the square, where you'll find the cathedral, the Praetorian Palace, a grocery store, a cafe under a lovely loggia and the tourist office. Keep walking straight across the square to reach Koper's main shopping street, which also has cafes scattered among the shops.
Tito Square (Titov Trg): Now named for Yugoslavia's post-World War II Prime Minister, President (and later President for Life) Josip Broz Tito, Old Town's central square dates back centuries. Its stone buildings are a mixture of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles, remodeled many times over the years. Tito Square is the first place you should head when exploring Koper. Surrounding the square, you'll find:
Praetorian Palace: A 15th-century structure, easily recognizable by its crenellated facade and carvings of the Venetian winged lion of St. Mark, this palace now contains an excellent tourist office, with plenty of brochures and booklets about Slovenia and the area around Koper. The building also serves as town hall, and you can take a guided tour of the building by inquiring at the tourist office. The building has been somewhat modernized, so the interior may be a bit disappointing, compared to the exterior. The tour visits the mayor's office, a reception room and city council chambers, with a large mosaic of Koper's symbol, a sun with a face. In the various rooms, you'll see painted rafters and decorated ceilings, Venetian chandeliers and some furnishings from a medieval pharmacy. (Tourism Office, Titov Trg; 386 5664 6403; open daily, October to May, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; and June to September, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.)
Cathedral of St. Mary's Assumption: The cathedral's religious history dates to the sixth century, but the current facade combines Gothic and Renaissance styles. Its greatest treasure is the painting "Madonna with Child on the Throne and Saints," by Vittore Carpaccio, painted in 1516. You'll find this large masterpiece on the right side of the church's interior. Carpaccio also decorated the organ with two paintings, "The Presentation in the Temple" and "The Slaughter of the Innocents." Koper's patron saint, St. Nazarius rests here, too, in a 15th-century stone sarcophagus. Near the cathedral's left exterior, there's an even older structure, the Rotunda of Mary's Assumption (no entry), which was used as a baptistery. You'll find a number of historic churches in Koper; visit the tourism office if you're interested in seeing others. (Titov Trg; 386 5627 3173; open daily, except during mass.)
Bell Tower: The city bell tower, next to the cathedral, was originally a fortified Romanesque structure. It was converted into a bell tower between the 15th and 17th centuries. If you're willing to climb 205 steps, you'll get a wonderful panoramic view of the city and the Gulf of Koper. (Titov Trg; hours vary.)
The Foresteria and Armeria: On the opposite side of Tito Square from the cathedral, these historic buildings date to the 15th and 16th centuries. The Foresteria provided accommodations for the podesta's guests. Note the lovely stone Renaissance doorframe, the Porta del Corte. Next to it, the Armeria, was used for weapon storage until 1550. The buildings are now owned by a university. (No entry.)
Loggia: A 15th-century Venetian-style loggia (remodeled in the 17th century) completes the square. It's housed a coffeehouse since the 19th century. Note the terracotta statue of the Madonna and Child on the corner of the building; it commemorates the devastating plague of 1554.
Entrance to Cevljarska Ulica: An arched portico between the wings of the Praetorian Palace leads to Old Town's prime shopping street. As you pass through, look to your right for the stone plaque with writing and a small, oval opening cut into it. In times past, this is where you could insert a piece of paper denouncing someone in the town. Fortunately, the practice has been discontinued!
Walking Tour of Old Town: After exploring Tito Square, head through the portico to Cevljarska Ulica, which has interesting small shops to browse. Turn left on Zupanciciva Ulica (Piranske Soline salt shop is on the corner where you turn). Check out the wild, handmade shoes in Tash, a shoemaker's shop, along the way. You'll soon arrive in Preseren Square, home to Da Ponte Fountain, built in 1666 and modeled after the Rialto Bridge in Venice. Keep going toward the large archway at the end of the square. This is the Muda Gate, built in 1516, where tolls were once collected for entering the city. It's the only preserved city gate out of an original 12. Walk through it, noting the heraldic decorations. You're now at the ring road, which was once water separating Koper from the mainland. Walk along it to your right, for about five minutes, until you reach the water. Just before the water, on the opposite side of the street, there's a large farmers market (open from about 6:30 a.m. until midday). Wander along the lovely seaside promenade, bordering the small-craft marina until you reach an old stone building with a series of arches. This is the 15th-century salt warehouse. Walk through the open arches and into Carpaccio Square, which was once a fish market. On one corner of the square stands gothic Carpaccio's house, now home to a small multimedia exhibit about the painter's work, worth a visit only if you're a fan, since the interior has been completely remodeled (Carpacciov Trg 6; 386 4155 6644; open Wednesday and Thursday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Friday to Sunday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.; combined ticket with the Koper Regional Museum). Keep walking along the water until you reach the cruise terminal, or continue through the far side of the square to Kidriciva Ulica, where there are some medieval houses with multicolored facades, as well as the Koper Regional Museum, which traces cultural heritage through artifacts, paintings, sculpture, weapons, clothing and decorative arts. It's located in the splendid Belgramoni-Tacco Palace. (19 Kidriciva Ulica; 386 4155 6644; open Tuesday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Saturday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; additional hours May to August, Saturday, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.)
Postojnska Cave: If you'd rather explore outside of Koper, this 12-mile network of passages and caverns about an hour northeast of Koper is a popular stop. The 1.5-hour guided tour takes you into the cave by train, where you'll see stalactites, stalagmites and any other karst formations. (30 Jamska Cesta, Postojnska; 386 5700 0100; May to September, daily, tours starting on the hour, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; April and October, daily, tours starting on the hour, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; January to March, November and December, Monday to Friday, tours starting on the hour, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Saturday to Sunday, tours starting on the hour, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.)
Predjama Castle: About 15 minutes from Postojnska Cave (and often combined in a shore excursion), this looming Renaissance castle built into the mouth of a cave perched on a 400-foot cliff is also a big draw. You can tour the armory, filled with weapons, and visit renovated rooms -- in addition to getting some great views. (Predjama; 386 5700 0100; open year-round, with tour hours that vary depending on season; in summer months there is a free shuttle bus between the castle and Postojnska Cave; combined tickets are also available.)
On Foot: Most of Koper's tourist attractions are within a 20-minute walk of the port. Once you're at the town level, the area is fairly flat, with a slight down-slope as you walk further into Old Town.
By Local Bus: Line #7 does a loop around Old Town. You can pay less by purchasing your ticket from a vending machine, or pay a higher price directly to the bus driver.
By Taxi: Taxis are plentiful at the port and metered. You can also book fixed-rate taxi transfers online between Koper and Ljubljana (61 miles or just over an hour travel time).
By Train: The train station is located about half a mile southeast of the port. Here, you can catch a train to Ljubljana, with a travel time of about 2.25 hours.
By Bus: You can travel by intercity bus to Ljubljana (61 miles or about 2.25 hours) or the coastal town of Piran (12 miles or about 35 minutes). Buses leave from the train station, and you might also find van-taxi drivers outside the station who are eager to offer you the same fare for what is usually a faster trip.
Best Nearby Beach: Walk along the coastal street, Kopalisko Nabrezje, to your right from the port. Less than a quarter-mile later, you'll arrive at pebbly Koper City Beach (Mestno Kopalisce Koper), which has a cordoned-off swimming area. It's backed by a grassy park and has several cafes with outdoor seating.
Best Resort Beach: Located about 20 minutes southwest of Koper by car, 30 minutes by bus, Portorose (Portoroz) Beach is Slovenia's most popular seaside spot. The swath of sand is lined with resorts, shops, cafes and restaurants, creating a lively scene and making it the top spot to take a dip in the Adriatic.
If you've spent time in Italy, many dishes you'll encounter in Koper may seem similar -- minestrone soup, for example. But because Slovenia changed hands so much through the ages, you'll also find other influences, like Hungarian goulash or Ottoman kebabs and burek, round, flaky pastries with savory fillings.
Fish and seafood are popular, as is the use of local olive oil and pumpkin seed oil. Pastas and risotto make an appearance, too. But there are also hearty traditional dishes: stews, grilled meats and sausages that might make cruise food seem light by comparison. Traditional vegetarian dishes include struklji (dumplings) with vegetable fillings and zganci, which is like a fine-grained polenta but made from corn, wheat or buckwheat. You'll also find potatoes served with many main courses.
The national dessert is prekmurje gibanica, an eight-layered cake with poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, raisins and ricotta fillings. You might also encounter smorn, a large, thick pancake that's chopped up while still in the skillet and served with fruit sauce; it's a popular street food.
Wash your meal down with local wines, including whites, Rebula and Malvasia (Malvazija), or reds, Refosco (Refosk) and Teran. Slovenia has more than 28,000 wineries and at least 52 varieties of vines -- so you're sure to find something to your taste!
Loggia Caffe Kaverna: This is a great place to relax and take in the scene on Old Town's historic main square with a cappuccino or glass of wine. The stone loggia is cool in the summer, and snacks include panini (Italian-style sandwiches), as well as savory and sweet pastries (Titov Trg; 386 5673 2689; open daily, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.)
Okrepcevalnica Istrska Klet "Slavcek": This little Old Town hideaway, located below the 18th-century Carli Palace, offers Istrian home cooking, including bean soup with sausage or ham, fish soup, goulash, Trieste-style tripe, grilled meats, and squid, sardines or anchovies. The stick-to-your-ribs food is tasty and reasonable, while the atmosphere is like traveling back in time (in a good way!). (39 Zupanciceva Ulica; 386 5627 6729; Sunday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.)
Capra: For cuisine and decor that's thoroughly modern, head to this restaurant near the small-craft marina. Its large outdoor space is perfect for sunny days, and the menu abounds with fresh seafood, including octopus, fried sardines, tuna carpaccio, pasta with scampi, and lasagna with shrimp, porcini and truffles. Meat eaters will find veal steak, beef tagliata (sliced, marinated steak) and creative burgers, like one smothered in Brie and grated truffles. Dishes are colorful and artfully plated, but the real works of art are the desserts, which are almost too beautiful to eat (but do devour them!). As an added bonus, much of the produce comes from the restaurant's own farm. Reservations recommended, particularly on weekends (3 Pristanishka Ulica; 386 4160 2030; open daily, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.)
Gostilna "Za Gradom" Rodica: Located about a 10-minute drive from the port, this exceptional restaurant serves ever-changing, prix-fixe menus bursting with creativity and fresh flavors. Along with every dish, you get a story from the owner, Darko Rodica, who speaks several languages -- but is definitely fluent in food! The emphasis is on seafood and seasonal ingredients, including octopus, crab, razor clams and scallops. Expect surprises, like a plate that arrives enveloped in fog. The decor is pleasant, but far less elegant than the food, which holds center stage. Reserve well in advance. (10 Kraljeva Ulica; 386 5628 5505; open Tuesday to Saturday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.)
Where You're Docked
You're docked right next to Koper's Old Town, within walking distance of shopping and all the town's sights. There are no facilities at the port, aside from security clearance, a large map and a few souvenir sellers who set up when a ship is in town.
Watch Out For
If you're in port on a Saturday, be aware that many businesses -- including most shops -- close at 1 p.m. Museums and restaurants are an exception. Most shops are also closed on Sunday.
If you're making a large purchase, we found that bargaining was possible at some, but not all, shops. Give it a try, but don't bargain on smaller items.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
Slovenia's currency is the euro. For current currency conversion figures visit www.oanda.com or www.xe.com. You'll find ATMs around town. The most convenient one is located on Kidriceva Ulica, the street that will be on your right as you enter Tito Square in Old Town on the way from the port. There's also an ATM at the Mercator grocery store on the square.
Koper is only 3 miles from the Italian border and is officially bilingual, in Italian and Slovene. You will also find English spoken in many shops, attractions and restaurants -- perhaps not fluently, but enough to communicate. Shopkeepers may show you an item's price using a calculator if their English is limited.
Pick up Slovenian crystal at a fraction of what you'd pay for it back home. You'll find an excellent selection of glasses, goblets, decanters, art glass and other objects at the Steklarna Rogaska shop, which sells directly from the Steklarna Rogaska glass factory. The staff thoroughly packs purchases to withstand travel. (15 Cevljarska Ulica; 386 5627 8423; open Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Saturday 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.)
For something less fragile, visit the stylish Piranske Soline shop, which sells sea salt from nearby saltpans, as well as soaps and body-care products containing local salt and olive oil. Don't miss their wickedly good dark chocolate bars with sea salt! (39 Zupanciceva Ulica at the intersection with Cevljarska Ulica; 386 5721 2214; open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.)
Skip the cocktails and opt for Istrian wine. Sample it by the glass at wine bar Okusi Istre. (37 Kidriceva Ulica; 386 4032 9539; open Monday to Saturday, from 2 p.m. onward.)
Koper: Silver MusekaimbuWalked the charming old town of Koper, then grabbed a taxi to Piran, which we loved - elegant seaside town and wonderful restaurants all along the quay. Really enjoy dour visit here! ... Read more
Koper: RivieraLDEEA nice bus ride to a neighboring town (Peran) where dining outdoors and sipping wine seem to be the number one activity and who can blame them? ... Read more
Koper: Westerdammonkeyman18Sunday visit and it seemed most things were closed ... Read more
Koper: WesterdamHappyTravelFanLovely, scenic drive through somewhat varied terrain. Great guide. Lake Bled is as picturesque as advertised, the ride to the island is relaxing, and the castle, although not representative of its era, is still worth a visit for the views and the ... Read more
Koper: Viking StardodittydaddyLjubljana is a cute town with a river ride as part of the excursion, but the hour long bus ride is too much and not all that scenic. I'd opt to stay in Koper and do something there. ... Read more
Koper: Viking SkyBucky.BadgersNot much to see in this town on a Sunday ... Read more
Koper: Viking SeaSunseeker1001The tour was nice, nice scenery, but the tour guide was awful. He jabbered on and on - mostly about how great he was and also made inappropriate references to bodily functions, politics and sex. He was so proud of the drinking culture of his ... Read more
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